Resin Floor to a Domestic Garage

The typical domestic garage floor is bare concrete that has spent decades shedding dust, absorbing oil and taking whatever was spilled on it. It cannot be properly cleaned because the surface is open and porous, and anything stored on it collects grit. Often there is old flaking floor paint on top, applied at some point and never adhered properly. The two questions that actually decide the job are whether the slab has a working damp proof membrane underneath it, and whether any cracking in it is live or static.

The floor is cleared and any failed coating, tile or adhesive residue removed. Slab moisture is checked rather than assumed, because moisture rising through a slab with no working membrane is the single most common cause of resin floor failure and it will lift a sealed coating off in blisters months later. The slab is then mechanically prepared by diamond grinding to remove contamination and open the surface so the resin has something to key into, and thoroughly vacuumed. Static cracks are opened out, cleaned and filled with a resin repair mortar and made flush; any movement joint is carried through rather than covered. The primer is then chosen to suit the moisture conditions actually found.

The resin system is applied in coats to the specified build. Where the floor will get wet, a fine aggregate is broadcast into the coating and sealed over to give controlled slip resistance, because a smooth gloss resin floor is genuinely slippery underfoot when wet. Colour and any decorative flake is agreed beforehand.

A seamless, jointless floor bonded to the prepared slab, with nothing for dirt to collect in and no grout lines to discolour. Handover includes separate dates for foot traffic and for vehicles, because driving onto a resin floor before it has reached full chemical cure, particularly turning the wheels while stationary, is the most common way a good floor gets marked in its first week.